Log Book, August 1876 - June 1877
Log Book of William Gardiner Anglin,
August 1876 - June 1877
MY LOG BOOK (part 2), for a trip to Scotland and Ireland, August 1876 - June 1877 WILLIAM GARDINER ANGLIN, (1856 - 1934)Tuesday - 29th August
This morning I awoke to cast my eyes on the "Land o'Cake". When I went on deck I found we were coasting past the Mull of Cantire. The shore is very bold and romantic. We then passed the Island of Sanda, a high island with a lighthouse on the point. Ailsa Craig or "Paddy's Milestone" next came in sight on the Starboard bow, looking like a large haystack. It must be 1500 or 2000 feet high. A Tug came alongside wanting to tow us but the Captain refused him as he was too small and a larger one was in sight making for us. We gave our hawser to the "Flying Squall" at 8 A.M. The large island of Arran came next on our port bow, with the Island of Pladda standing out from it with a large light. The Island of Arran is very large and on it are several high mountains on the tips of which the clouds are resting this morning. The face of the island is very fertile but beyond this it is barren. It was a beautiful sight this morning to see mile after mile of fields regularly laid out and divided by hedges in all the beauty of harvest time, some were dark green (turnips I suppose), others a light green, and the majority white for the sickle; in some of the fields the grain was stacked. Interspersed between these on the slope of the hill were the handsome, commodious farmhouses, all painted white with brown roofs. This island belongs to the Duke of Hamilton. We are just now opposite his castle and estate at 10 A.M. The castle is very large and looks as if it were built of red granite. The grounds are very fine, heavily wooded and sheltered by a large mountain in the rear, a fine view of the sea is to be had from the front. There are a great number of vessels in sight, five or six towing up after us each with a separate Tug. We have passed two already.
We have passed two beautiful bays, Whiting Bay and Gamlash Harbor, they are fashionable watering places. I could see distinctly with the glass long rows of bathing houses. Holy Island is a tall rugged peak over 1000 ft. high. We pass so close that I could almost throw a stone on it. The island of Bute is now in sight. We expect to reach Glasgow with this evening's tide. The ship "Abeona", which left Montreal on the 5th inst, arrived in Glasgow this morning. I have never in my life seen such scenery. I cannot attempt to describe it; it is perfectly grand, one continuous feast all the way up. The sun is shining gloriously; there is a fine breeze filling the sails we have set and I think I can safely say that my eyes were never so privileged and feasted before. What a beautiful world this is!
1:30 P.M. and we have just passed Rothesay on the Isle of Bute, a large fashionable watering place, had a splendid view of Stuart House, the residence of the Marquis of Bute. It is an ancient looking building, very massive and grand. It is surrounded by a beautiful, thick grove of trees extending over many acres, but just behind the castle is an open space, a beautiful green field in which were a number of sheep grazing. The sun shone brightly on the scene; it made a marked impression on my memory; it was "prettier than a picture", the most beautiful thing I have yet seen. The contrast between the dark foliage of the trees and the light green of the grass with the white sheep dotted over it, was very fine. In the rear is a majestic hill and as a frontispiece the old castle and grove of trees extending almost to the shore.
Great numbers of steamers are plying up and down the Clyde - they are very handsomely built and equipped and are very fast; they go by us in a hurry and we are going at the rate of 10 knots; they are crowded with pleasure seekers and tourists frequenting the watering places. Quite a number of ocean vessels have passed us outward bound. Numbers of pleasure yachts, both steam and sail, are plying about.
I very much admire the Scotch farms, the fields are laid out in a regular manner and divided by hedges or groves of magnificent trees. On the point opposite Rothesay is, to my mind, the prettiest scenery I have yet seen, beautiful fields on the slope of a high mountain, green and yellow, divided by groves of trees and the white farmhouses nestled down in a corner of the farms. Just here the shore is thickly dotted with fine substantial stone residences. Some say that the scenery of the Clyde is unsurpassed by anything in the world. It is really so transcendently great that I cannot describe it. Oh for an artist's eye and hand, and I would try and transfer these scenes to canvas but as I cannot do that, I must just store them away in my memory. I did not think that I could be so enthusiastic over scenery, but I find myself captivated. I can only sit and gaze and gaze.
2 P.M. we are passing Inellan, a very pretty town, farther on I can see Dunoon. On the opposite shore are some magnificent seats of the merchant princes of Glasgow, that of Burns' of the Cunard Company is a beautiful castle, large and lofty, situated among trees on the slope of the mountain. Indeed the banks of the Clyde are very lofty all the way up and thickly covered with fine groves. I did not expect to see so much woodland here. Sailing yachts and swift steamers are scudding past us every few minutes. A magnificent steamer passed a short time ago, gaily decorated with flags, evidently on her trial trip, also a fine new iron ship in tow of a steamer with a number of ladies on board, their bright, scarlet cloaks giving life to the scene.
We reached Greenock at 3:15 P.M. where we had to wait for the tide for about an hour and a half. We were quickly boarded by a Pilot and the Custom House officer and his gang who made a most thorough search. We then proceeded down the river. I saw a great number of iron ships and steamers in course of construction, over 100 - including two large Rams being built for the Government. We were soon made fast to the pier and then visited by other Customs Officers. I slept on the ship, also the Second Mate, all the others left as soon as possible. There is a law compelling all lights to be put out at 10 P.M. on board vessels in the harbor.
Wednesday - 30th August
At 9 o'clock the Steward came down to the vessel and with him I went to the office of P. Rintone Sons Co., the Ship's Agents. I was much disappointed in not receiving any letters from home. I am much impressed with Glasgow, its size, the fine buildings and streets, and the ceaseless tide of traffic, also with the numberless crafts in the Clyde and the many handsome massive bridges spanning the river. We crossed one of these and I made arrangements for staying at Lapsley's Commercial Hotel, a very quiet place, yet right in the heart of the City and convenient to wharves, railway stations and Post Office. On our way back to the vessel I called at 32 Minerva Street and received the heartiest of Irish welcomes from Mrs. McDermott. Here I found a cousin of mine from Cork, Minnie Walker by name. The McDermott family consists of the mother, two sons, grownup and engaged in the Timber business and two daughters, Dorcas and Minnie. I then went to the "Michigan" and, having procured a cab, had myself and luggage conveyed to the Hotel where I was most comfortably situated. I have every comfort with moderate charges. The front windows look out on the Clyde with its busy traffic. Tonight, as I write, the lights along the piers look very brilliant, one long streak of light.
Thursday - 31st August
After a refreshing night's rest and a nicely served breakfast I sallied forth and mingled with the throngs in the street. Here all is bustle, hurry and rush from 6 A.M. until 11:30 P.M. As you go along Jamaica Street and over the massive bridge large handsomely painted Buses dash past drawn by three and four spirited horses, followed by the tramway cars at a slower pace, large drays and lorries are continually going to and fro, drawn by immense Clyde horses. You very seldom see more than one horse, no matter how large the load. In fact they walk along with a load to which we would have to attach two or three of our horses. The streets here are very wide, paved with stone, the sidewalks are either stoneflags or asphalt pavements. The only wooden walk is over the suspension bridge. The stores are very brilliantly decorated, the goods are fine, in great variety and very reasonable. The buildings are massive, durable and some of them very handsome. In St. George's Square are statues of Prince Consort of Queen, Walter Scott, Lord Clyde and Sir John Moore. In St. Enich's Square yesterday a great number of farmers were collected, it being fair day. They were a fine intelligent looking lot of men. People never seem to notice one another here. Each goes about his own business. Any amount of girls and women may be seen with nothing on their heads and many without anything on their feet, and the youngsters run about in pants, shirt, jacket and cap only. The number of confectionery stores with their tempting displays surprises me. I did not think the Scotchmen so fond of good things. You will meet with one every few yards, some of them very extensive. A vast amount of confections are exported from here. At 10:20 A.M. I took the train for Barrhead and, after a very pleasant ride of 20 minutes through beautiful farming and manufacturing country, I arrived at my destination. I was very cordially received by Mr. Cunningham and received from him a letter from home with which I was greatly delighted. I was beginning to feel lonely and was glad to hear that they were all well. Mr. C. and I talked over the business quite a while and I saw some of the logs we shipped here. We went up to his handsome residence to luncheon. The house stands on a hillside looking over the town of Barrhead (7000) which lies in a valley. The view from the front window is very fine. Just in front of the door were two pretty yews, in the form of a cone, 20 ft. in circumference at the base and ending in a point 6 ft. high. At lunch I met Mrs. C. and her sister, a very pretty Scotch girl. Mr. C. and I then returned to Glasgow. I spent the afternoon in walking about the City, writing a letter home, etc. In the evening I went to Mrs. McDermott's to tea and spent a very pleasant evening. I met all the family; they are very friendly. William, the eldest is a fine looking fellow of about 6 ft. 4 ins. James is younger and not so tall. They are engaged in the Timber business. They had an auction at their yard the day before. This is their plan of doing business in that line. They collect a quantity of material and then call an auction and dispose of it, this they do 5 or 6 times a year. Dorcas, the eldest daughter is rather a handsome girl of say 21 and Minnie is about 18 years. Mrs. McD. is a genuine Irish matron. My cousin, Minnie Walker, is a true type of a clever Irish girl. I also met here Mr. and Mrs. Cranford (Scotch) very nice young people. Mrs. C. is a beautiful performer on the piano. I was delighted with an imitation of the Bagpipes and with a selection of Irish and Scotch airs.
Friday - 1st September
After breakfast this morning I started for Mile End, Glasgow, N.J. Clark Junior and Co's Threadmaking Establishment. I had with me a letter of introduction to their foreman, Mr. McEwan from Mr. C. The ride down to Bridgeton Cross on the top of a tramway car was very interesting - passing down Argyle Street with its brilliant fronts of handsomely decorated windows - fine buildings and churches, you soon reach a Square called the gate, a very busy mart. From this you branch off to other busy streets and at length reach the Cross. From here a two minute's walk will bring you to Clark's Establishment. Riding on these tramway cars you see all that is going on, being at quite an elevation. At the Cross I enquired from a man standing on the corner my direction. As he was idle, he volunteered to direct me and took me for a half hour's walk to Alexander's Factory on Duke St. Of course, we had to retrace our steps and soon found the right place. However in the walk I saw a number of places of interest. Having found Mr. McEwan, I was taken to see our last shipment of blocks which were not so good as they should be. Then I spent some time in the turning room where some 50 hands are employed. The process of finishing the spools is very interesting and the workmen are very smart. Great stores of birch from the Highlands are adjacent to this building. I spent some time in this room examining the process closely. Mr. McEwan then took me through the Establishment and explained the process of making the Thread. Large numbers of girls are employed, altogether 900 in the Factory. I saw every process from spinning the thread down to sticking on the labels and wrapping up in dozens, packing, etc. I then returned to the Hotel and after lunch betook myself to Mrs. McDermott's, or my Aunt's as I call it, and went with my cousins to Mr. Cranford's to spend the evening, having received an invitation the evening before. I spent a very pleasant evening with the family. Mr. C. is the steward of the Wesleyan Church. We were favoured with plenty of music and singing. The people here are doing everything in their power to make the visit of their Canadian cousin as pleasant as possible.
Saturday - 2nd September
This morning after breakfast I went down the south side of the Clyde to view the shipping. I went to the "Lake Michigan" and saw the Mate. He expects to leave on Friday next. I then went on board a fine new iron clipper, just finished for the Allan's and intended for the Indian trade. She is a very large beautiful model, fitted out in the most improved manner and is named the "Glenmorac". The Cabin was something superb, elegant enough for the Prince of Wales. The "Inchgreen", another perfectly new vessel was lying alongside. A decided improvement for the comfort of sailors has been introduced in this vessel. Abaft the foremast is a house or cuddy where each man has a separate room. I do not expect to see finer vessels than these on my trip. I then proceeded up to the town and posting myself on the top of a tramway car, I started on a tour of inspection. I met with a very nice gentleman from Wales, engaged in the ship building trade. We were soon engaged in an interesting conversation, very profitable to me. We rode about three miles and then crossed through the West End Park, a beautiful spot beside the University buildings, and then took cars again down Sanchiehall and Jamaica Streets to my Hotel. It was now 1:30 P.M. After lunch I took the 2:35 train for Barrhead. I went directly to Mr. Cunningham's residence. After dinner we proceeded to business and by teatime had the matter satisfactorily arranged. Afterwards we had music and then Mr. and Mrs. C and Watson accompanied me to the station.
Sunday - 3rd September
Went to Mrs. McD's and accompanied them to church. Their new minister, Rev. J.V. Shrewbury, an Englishman, preached his first sermon in the morning. It was an anniversary occasion and the singing was conducted by the S.S. children. In the afternoon an address was given to the children, and preaching again in the evening. Mr. S. is a talented man and I have no doubt will do much good in this place. All the friends saw me down to the Hotel where I bade them good-night. How pleasant to be able to attend the Lord's house.
Monday - 4th September
I was to have accompanied my cousins to Loch Lomond today but the weather, proving unfavorable, we were obliged to postpone it. We walked to the Cathedral and spent an hour or sop there viewing the beautiful windows, fine monuments and general aspect. I have bought a small descriptive book of the building. We then proceeded down Buchanan Street to Hyde and Lochead's Furnishing Establishment and spent half an hour there with much satisfaction. We then went to the Argyle Arcade and, being joined by Mr. C., went and dined. The remainder of the day we spent in sight-seeing and in a run to the South Side Park and then home for the evening.
Tuesday - 5th September
Took the fast Steamer "Iona" at 7 A.M. for a trip to the Highlands. I was joined by my cousins at 7:30. After a delightful run down the Clyde through the Firth, we turned up past the Island of Bute and through the Kyles of Bute to Loch Fyne. We reached the village of Tarbert at 1 P.M. Here we left the steamer (which proceeded a short distance further to Adrishaig) and wandered through the village. Tarbert possesses a very fine harbor in which a great number of fishing smacks lay at anchor waiting for the evening when they all sally forth for their night work. The Loch Fyne herring are very fine. Women peddle them about Glasgow calling out in their shrill voices "Herrin, fresh herrin, fine caller herrin new drawn frae the sea". The village is in a very picturesque situation nestling at the foot of a high sloping mountain. Numbers of fishermen in neat costume of navy blue were scattered through the village, some mending nets or building and repairing boats and others of them standing at the street corners busy talking. I found an old fisherman who was disposed to be very communicative and obtained from him a deal of information. He showed me some bones of a whale which were doing duty as pillars and archway for an entrance to a fisherman's cottage, also the figurehead of a vessel which was found by some fishermen away on the north seas. After inspecting this Highland village in which, by the way, I heard many speaking the Gaelic, I climbed the mountain side up by a bonny stream and plucked a quantity of heather. The steamer now came in sight on the return trip and we were soon on board and ploughing homewards at the rate of 20 miles per hour. The scenery was beautifully grand, the day fine and the air clear and pleasant so that all combined to make this one of the most delightful trips that I ever enjoyed. We reached Glasgow at 7:30.
Wednesday - 6th September
I remained at Aunt's overnight, rooming with "Long Bill". After breakfast I went down town with Dorcas and into Stewart and Macdonald's large Drygoods & Fitting Establishment and selected a Scotch tweed for an Ulster for my sister. Dorcas was measured for it and it is to be finished by Saturday. It will, I think, be a very suitable present. In the afternoon Dorcas, Minnie and I went down to Clark Jr. & Co.'s Thread Establishment and were kindly shown around by the Foreman, Mr. McEwan. The ladies were much pleased and interested with the process of manufacture, especially with one machine which put the thread on eight spools at one time, nicked the spools and inserted the thread, shoved off the spool and replaced it with an empty one, all that was necessary to be done being to place empty spools along the machine. I had another talk with Mr. McEwan in reference to the bobbin manufacture. Returned to the house and there spent the evening in singing, conversation, etc.
Thursday - 7th September
Went down to Clark Jr and Co.'s and had a final interview with Mr. McEwan, obtained from him a list of blocks marked with sizes and prices. I was then introduced to the senior partner and consulted him for some time and received from him a trial order for 7000 gross to be delivered next spring, also order to send in the quantity we have on hand, culled and in good condition. Mr. McEwan will also see to get a good price for the boxes. After luncheon I went up to Minerva Street and wrote a letter home to James and one to Cork to Mrs. Duke, informing her that I would leave for Cork on Monday Next (DV). I took the 5:30 train for Barrhead and spent a very pleasant evening, returning by 10 P.M. train.
Friday - 8th September
Took the 8:40 train for Edinburgh. Away we went at a high rate of speed dashing through long dark tunnels and then out again into the bright sunshine. The scenery was very pretty just in this harvest time, in many of the fields men and women were engaged in cutting and harvesting the grain. The crops looked very fine. Two of the tunnels which we passed through (there are four between Glasgow and Edinburgh) were very long and while in them we were enshrouded in Egyptian darkness, then on we shot out from them into the joyous sunshine; the contrast was very marked. I was led to think of the time when I was brought out of darkness into the marvellous light of God's free grace. Edinburgh was reached in 70 minutes. I proceeded from the Waverley Station, a fine building, up to Princess Street and along up through the City, returning to Sir Walter Scott's Monument, a beautiful structure. Having paid twopence, I ascended the Monument and had a fine view. A monument to Livingstone has lately been erected in the Park close to Scott's monument. I then went to the Museum and spent more than an hour in examining the many objects of interest. Mummies from Egypt, old antiques, armour, etc. and Jenny Geddes' stool, etc. etc. I have a catalogue, so will not occupy more space here. From the Museum I proceeded to Edinburgh Castle, a grand old pile well situated on a hill just opposite the New Town. I spent about an hour and a half here inspecting the regalia of Scotland, Queen Mary's room, St. Margaret's chapel, Mons Meg, and the other places of interest about the Castle. A large gun is fired off from the Castle at noon, Greenwich time, connected by electricity. I was quite close at the time and the report was something immense. I then walked down High Street, had luncheon and proceeded to the Hall of Science, a fine large building. I was perfectly astonished and amazed with the objects that met my view. As you enter you are confronted with models in plaster of celebrated places, Gates, etc. on the Continent of St. Peters at Rome and St. Paul's in London, working models of steam hammers, steam cranes, etc., models of celebrated bridges constructed by Stevenson, models of Lighthouses, Eddystone among them shewing the process of construction, layer by layer and miniature men at work, the complete system of lighting, etc. etc., beautiful models of Clydebuilt ships, ironclad war vessels and merchant vessels - models of vessels carved in ivory Chinese workmanship, beautiful specimens of carving in wood, etc. In another room is shewn the different processes in the manufacture of pens, pins, needles, knives, forks, razors, etc. etc. In another large room you may see stuffed animals, every animal known in the world from a mouse to an elephant, many specimens from the sea, walruses, seals, porpoises, etc. and the skeleton of a whale 70 feet long suspended from the ceiling, an immense thing. You may also see birds of every kind, of every plumage from the little hummingbird to the ostrich - also birds' eggs, ostrich eggs and foreign birds' nests. Then there are other articles to be seen almost too numerous to mention, including photographs of all the races of the world, articles manufactured by uncivilized tribes, their dress, weapons, utensils, etc. The State umbrella of King Coffee, captured at Coomassie, is also to be seen here. They have not yet a catalogue of the articles made out as they are continually receiving additions to their number. There is a refreshment room in the building where you can obtain almost anything at moderate fixed prices, also nice lavatories where you can get soap and towel for a penny. So that one can go and spend the day there quite comfortably. Indeed I could spend a week in examining the collection, and was only too sorry to have to leave at 4 P.M., their hour for closing. I then went to Holyrood Palace, passing St. Giles and John Knox's house on the way. After a tour of the Palace, the picture gallery, Lord Darnley's rooms, Queen Mary's rooms, the chapel, etc., I ascended Calton Hill to the National Monument, passing Burns' Monument and the High School on the way. I also ascended Nelson's Monument, from the top of which you get a grand view of the city and surrounding country, Leith and the Firth of Forth. I was much impressed with the beauty of Edinburgh, its situation and handsome buildings, beautiful stores. I took the 6 o'clock train for Glasgow and arrived there at 8 P.M. After supper went to Minerva St.
Saturday - 9th September
Went about the City until 11 A.M., was joined by a gentleman from Clark's Establishment and we went to Allan's office to arrange as to home freights but found that it must be arranged on the other side. I then went down to their works and received a letter to their agents in Montreal requesting them to use their influence with me when I return. In the afternoon I went to Minerva Street and went with my cousins to the West End Park and Museum. We returned to tea and then went to the Botanic Gardens and the Kibble in the evening. The gardens are very fine, and a favorite resort. The "Kibble" is a large enclosed building, very light and handsome, in form circular with an entrance at one side. At one side of this entrance is a fine miniature of Loch Lomond and on the other side a Mossery, a charming spot. In the building a beautiful band performs from 7 to 9 P.M. In the intervals four pipers in Highland costume gave fine selections. The people promenade round and round, seeing and being seen, and when tired occupy benches placed for the purpose. The centre of the building is taken up with fixed seats which were all occupied. I enjoyed the sight very much.
Sunday - 10th September
Was privileged to attend church twice. In the morning heard an excellent sermon from "In the world we shall have tribulation but, fear not, I have overcome the world", and in the evening from "????? of God". After church we had an excellent prayer meeting. All the family escorted me down to the Hotel where I bade them goodnight.
Monday - 11th September
Had a very busy day. In the morning purchased my ticket for Cork and had my trunk conveyed on board. At 12:30 took a run to Barrhead on a final visit, returning at 3:30. Aunt Mag, Dorcas, Minnie Walker, William and Bill Crawford saw me off on the train at 6 P.M. for Greenock. On arriving there found them loading the steamer with hogsheads of sugar and were not expected to be finished before 11 P.M. I employed my time in walking through the town, writing letters, etc. The night was fine, the moon shining brightly, and the run down the Firth of Clyde was most pleasant.
Tuesday - 12th September
A most beautiful day. Passed Dublin Bay about 3 P.M. and from that coasted along the Irish Coast the rest of the evening. I admired the rich green verdure, the general aspect of the Coast very much. I had a very interesting companion in a gentleman from Kilmarnock who was travelling on business. Waterford was reached at 4 A.M. the following morning.
Wednesday - 13th September
After breakfast we strolled through the town and found our way to a bacon curing Establishment. The proprietor was most obliging and kindly showed us the whole process. They had been killing pigs since 2:30 A.M. and did not expect to finish until 10:30 A.M. At this one place they kill from 900 to 1000 pigs weekly. This morning the animals were being disposed of at the rate of four a minute. The process is very interesting. I have it in my head so will not describe it just now. We wandered through the town and into several buildings, churches, etc. The surroundings of the city are very fine, the rich green of the fields is something worth looking at, giving a right to the name "Emerald Isle". Here I got my first insight into Irish character, saw the jaunting cars and women driving donkeys harnessed in carts containing large churns, filled with buttermilk.
We left the quay at 3 P.M., after embarking some additional passengers, and steamed down the river Sair. The scenery was grand. I was privileged with a position on the Bridge alongside the Captain, who kindly pointed out all objects of interest. At one point on the river could be seen the headland of three counties towering over the water, Killkenny, Waterford and Wexford. About 10 P.M. the lights of Queenstown were seen, and after wending our way through the Harbor, we entered the river and reached the quay at Cork at 11:30 P.M. Frank Duke jumped on board and gave me a cordial welcome. I left my luggage on the steamer and accompanied him to his house where I was as cordially received by his wife and sister.
Thursday - 14th September
I went down to the Market with Frank and on returning found Mrs. Duke waiting to see me. I was very glad to see her and she was delighted to meet with me who had so lately been with her Richard. In the afternoon I saw her on board the steamer for Aghada, a watering place, where she is spending a few weeks. I am made to feel quite at home here and have experienced the first homelike feeling since I left my home on the 4th August last. Frank has a fine little baby, a bright and cheerful little creature.
Friday - 15th September
Wrote letters home to Father and Sister in the morning. Rained all day. In the afternoon went up to Temple Acre, Uncle Sam Anglin's [25] place, with Cousin John who called down for me. Here I met Aunt, and her sons, Arthur, Willie and George. Uncle Sam is in the provision trade, curing bacon which he ships to England. I was shown about the premises which were arranged similarly to those which I saw in Waterford. Was pleased with a number of fine drawings executed by Cousin John, really clever pieces showing talent, also with George's playing on the pianoforte. Frank called up for me about 10 o'clock, when I returned with him. His place is to me like home and I could not be better treated. I enjoy our little home-circle very much.
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